Nike x UNDERCOVER is all about technical style
Nike x UNDERCOVER is, at the moment, the very definition of footwear hype. This Summer was quiet in terms of releases for long stretches. Every now and then, Jordan Brand or adidas would drop some heat on us. But, it didn’t quite come with the noise you might expect from the Summer months of releases. The Nike x UNDERCOVER React Element 87 changes that very quickly.
Having first spotted it earlier this year as part of a runway show in Paris, the wider public finally gets their chance at copping these bangers. You might look at this shoe’s design – and all the chatter it’s causing – and wonder if this was an example of overnight success. Well, you’d be wrong to assume it was.
The Nike x UNDERCOVERReact Element 87 represents a piece of landmark footwear design, sure. However, it doesn’t come out of the blue and not without some design foundations being set from the get-go. Nike’s take on athletic wear had always paid special attention to adaptability.
The Swoosh, like any sensible brand in this industry, consistently aims to make sure their products have cultural endurance. This is the sort of thinking that has so crucially informed the wandering-mind nature of the Nike design collective. In Jun Takahashi, the founder of UNDERCOVER, Nike finds a partner that has that very same mindset.
Since 2010
In 2010, Takahashi and Nike get together for the start of something truly special. Their collaborative efforts result in the forming of a brand named Gyakusou. This new project brings together the technical and material capabilities of Nike with the consumer-first design philosophy of Takahashi.
The first collection from this project debuts in late 2010, marking the first truly splashy athleticwear release of that holiday season. This release, like much of what we see from the brand in recent years, centers on performance. Specifically, 2010’s Gyakusou drop keys in on running. The highlight of that offering was the lightweight stretch jacket.
It was forward-thinking designs like that jacket – the sleeves can be removed for climate adjustment – that inform the project for years. It’s also the spark behind all of the work that Takahashi’s UNDERCOVER does with Nike throughout the years.
Just looking at last year alone, we can see a consistent pattern. 2017 saw UNDERCOVER get together with NikeLab for a remarkable new design. The NikeLab x UNDERCOVER SFB Jungle Dunk was one of the most talked about releases for months.
Past meets future
This take on a classic Nike design combined key features of three distinctive models. The OG Nike Dunk informs this shoe’s upper, making innovative use of the leather paneling. That chunky, rugged outsole? It’s a straight rip from the less recognizable Jungle Boot. Perhaps the most familiar element here was the heel caging system – it’s the same design used on the Nike Air Huarache.
The result was a beast of a silhouette that couldn’t help but polarize much of the sneaker community. Many of the shoe’s staunchest critics saw an attempt at spoiling and monetizing classic. Yet, those who lauded this release saw the design as a high point in the performance-meets-style category.
If we venture a bit further back, we can see why the combination of activewear and fashion is so important to this partnership. For Nike, as we’ve mentioned above, it’s a natural part of the industry to think about meeting a shifting sense of consumer demand. For Takahashi, however, it’s a slightly different story.
Nike Gyakysou Lunarspeed Lite Mid Fog (2012)UNDERCOVER’s running ethos
The UNDERCOVER founder has been a longtime passionate runner, seeing it as a meditative activity. He reportedly runs upwards of “13 Km every other day.” Spending that much time hitting the pavement, Takahashi has a particularly informed background when it comes to designing running gear. It has clearly been a big part of his work with Gyakusou.
Garments such as the Shield Jacket, seen last on the FW2017 collection, are very clearly fixated on performance. Packed with protective features, this piece is a dynamic concept.
The back of this jacket sports a perforated design while the front comes in a down-filled construction. We also see the incorporation of modern performance running staples, such as the knit sleeves that also come with thumb holes. The highlight, of course, is the protective wrap-around mask that reimagines the modern running hoodie.
All of these functional elements can often make Takahashi’s work perhaps sound as if it’s only meant for runners. However, one look at any of his Gyakusou collections shows otherwise.
The aforementioned Shield Jacket features prominently in the 2017 Fall/ Winter collection and boasts surprising wearability. Even the less run-inclined can tap into the future of fashion in garments like this. Moreover, we see that same consideration for both fashion and function in the more modern Nike x UNDERCOVER releases.
Nike x Undercover React is way more than just a shoe
The React Element 87 is more than just a hype-friendly drop. It’s emblematic of the sort of work that both collaborators have been doing for quite some time.
The upper’s translucent construction is as forward-thinking as it gets in terms of contemporary footwear. It meets the requirement of being ultimately marketable. But, perhaps more crucially, it’s also a detail that provides a lightweight and protective frame. This shoe’s build also presents some hiking-boot properties thanks to that same material.
The inclusion of a stripped-down lacing system, as well as the unique taping, make for a very deliberate aesthetic. Beyond meeting the modern standards of the “ugly shoe” or “chunky sneaker” trend, this React Element 87 is an elegant meeting of Nike’s tech and Takahashi’s vision.
The inclusion of a React midsole only goes further in proving that point. This could never be released as a shoe that centered in on a look. As important as the visuals are, the shoe had to be fundamentally wearable. Making sure it was in a lightweight construction as well as adding Nike’s latest in cushioning technology is a major step in that direction.
We can definitely expect to see more from Nike x UNDERCOVER that helps us understand the future of footwear and fashion – one that blends form and function so thoroughly that we’ll hardly remember them as separate concepts.
Take your own step towards a running journey. Discover more about Nike x UNDERCOVER.
