What sneakers are currently at the top of your adidas hit-list? The latest Yeezy Boost 350 V2s? Some cushy UltraBOOSTS, perhaps? Maybe a classic pair of shell-toed Superstars? All of these are great sneakers for sure, but ask Gary Aspden and his answer is guaranteed to be the last model you’d expect… because it’s a model you’re almost guaranteed to have never even heard of!
Gary Aspden via: soccerbible
As the head of adidas Spezial, Gary spends his days searching the globe for the most obscure and elusive models in the brand’s history to preserve, recreate and reinvent. Ahead of the release of adidas Spezial’s summer 2019 lineup, we caught up with Gary to find out exactly what makes a sneaker ‘Spezial’.
Interview with Gary Aspden
Matt Williams (M.W.) – Congratulations on yet another incredible Spezial collection! Let’s wind back to the start first though, where did the idea for Spezial come from and how were you brought on board?
Gary Aspden (G.A.) – I have been with adidas in varying capacities for over twenty years, and am nowadays retained by them as a consultant. Spezial was originally quite a UK-centric idea, as we felt there was a huge audience of adidas ‘purists’ here who wanted products with a traditional adidas look and identity – the kind that are not particularly interested in hype products. Spezial was created to cater to that audience.
M.W. – Where did your own fascination with adidas spawn from?
G.A. – I got my first pair of adidas trainers – adidas Kick– in the late 1970s, so my connection to the brand runs pretty deep.
M.W. – What is it about the older Three Stripes models that appeals to you in particular?
G.A. – There is a particular adidas aesthetic from the 70s and 80s (the original Trefoil era) that I am in love with. It’s my primary reference for Spezial. For me and my peers, much of the 90s were spent chasing the deadstock leftovers from the previous two decades.
M.W. – Spezial has always revived some of the most obscure adidas gems, but often with slight tweaks and name changes. Why is it important to rejuvenate these silhouettes?
G.A. – These silhouettes deserve to be rejuvenated because the fundamentals in their designs are brilliant. In some cases, I believe that, with some minor tweaks, the original designs can be improved considerably.
M.W. – What is it about Spezial releases that make them far more special than your average sneaker release?
G.A. – I could never say that my work is more special than someone else’s – that’s for the customer to decide. It also depends how you measure what makes something special. For the earlier seasons of Spezial, the volumes we produced were much lower and we were heavily criticised for ‘exploiting people’s passion’ because of resellers. In response, we increased the volumes for subsequent seasons, as we want people to engage with Spezial and wear the items we produce, and we then get criticised for making it overly available – it’s a no-win situation! What I can say is that a lot of love and attention goes into every Spezial release.
adidas Spezial SS18
M.W. – People might think Spezial is as simple as putting an old model back into production, but we’re sure that sometimes you wish it was actually that simple! How much effort goes into reintroducing an old model into Spezial?
G.A. – Well, those who have no experience of reissuing shoes often think it’s far simpler than it actually is. There are the practical realities about the availability of lasts and toolings, and commercial realities that many don’t consider. It’s a lot of effort and can sometimes be really frustrating for a host of reasons.
M.W. – Some of the models to join Spezial are so rare that there aren’t even pairs in the adidas archives. How do you go about tracking down these elusive models down?
G.A. – There is not a simple answer to that question… I am always on the lookout for obscure models and releases, as are a number of my friends who also collect vintage adidas products.
M.W. – Is there a particular adidas model you are still hoping to resurrect one day?
G.A. – I try not to think that far ahead.
M.W. – What’s your personal favourite from the latest Spezial drop?
G.A. – I like them all, but I will most likely be wearing the Silverbirch SPZL the most as I have always been a fan of 80s adidas running shoes.
M.W. – Is there a Spezial release, in all of its history, that you are particularly proud or holds a special place in your heart?
G.A. – There are a few. The Indoor Court SPZL and the Cote SPZL are two of my personal favourites, although neither did that well commercially. The GT Manchester SPZL was good, because it was a shoe I came up with in 2001 when the trainer landscape looked very different to how it is now. The shoe had become inaccessible to most due to resale prices, so it was nice to rework it and give a new generation of trainer fans access to it. I like the fact that Spezial has resurrected adidas leisure shoes in a contemporary way. Shoes like those will always divide opinions – but that’s never a bad thing!
M.W. – As you are so rooted in adidas’ past, what’s your take on the brand’s current direction and technology? Are there are any particular new models that have taken your fancy?
G.A. – I don’t see myself as rooted in the past. I work with an aesthetic that I believe to be timeless. I see Spezial as a modern – not retro – collection. I love the fact that adidas is dedicated to pushing the envelope on new technology. Boost is nothing short of revolutionary. Ultimately, it’s that investment in athletic technology that differentiates sportswear brands from the fashion brands that reference and, ultimately, imitate them.
M.W. – Finally, back in 2017, you treated Noel Gallagher to his very own signature Spezial release. If there was to be a ‘Gary Aspden’ signature shoe, what would it look like?
G.A. – I could never do that unless adidas were insistent, as I would look like an egomaniac. My son or my girlfriend would get a signature shoe before me, if I had the choice.
M.W. – A true gentleman! Thanks for speaking with us, Gary.
The adidas Spezial summer 2019 collection releases at Foot District this Saturday, June 22. The collection consists of three new sneakers – the Silverbirch SPZL, the GLXY SPZL and the Earlham SPZL – and matching apparel, perfect to rep your Stripes in the warmer months.