Nike SB has made one hell of a comeback over the past 12 months. The Swoosh’s skateboarding sneakers are once again some of the most coveted in the scene and resale prices for SB Dunks – both old and new – are at all-time high.
With Nike revisiting many of the division’s most successful collaborations from yesteryear lately, including Supreme according to latest rumours, we decided to check in with one of our favourite SB collaborators from the past: Sbtg mastermind Mark Ong. Read on for the lowdown on what this talented Singaporean artist makes of the contemporary sneaker scene, where his love of camouflage comes from and why his original SB Dunk design might be making an unexpected comeback.
Matt Williams (M.W.) – Thanks for chatting with us, Mark. Your SB Dunk is still fresh as hell, but sadly, as you recently shared on Instagram, time hasn’t been too kind to them. The grip tape-like material has deteriorated tremendously on just about every pair. If you could go back in time, would you have done things differently?
Mark Ong (Sbtg) – I don’t regret the design, I just didn’t anticipate the reaction of the materials through time, man. I kinda relate it to OG pairs of the Air Jordan 1. You know how the ankles start to flake off? But, if I could go back in time, I would probably choose to replace those panels with suede.
M.W. – For sure, I understand the connection to the AJ1. It doesn’t prevent their wearability, like how old Air Max soles crumble with age. It ultimately just changes the way that they look. If you’d said it was an intentional design decision, like the recent ‘LA to Chicago’ AJ1 SBs, people probably would have started stripping it off right away!
Sbtg – [Laughs] Oh, I love that idea!
M.W. – Sounds like maybe it’s time for Nike SB to give them the retro treatment with new ‘wearaway’ functionality. In the early to mid 2000s, SB stood out by collaborating with many creatives who were relatively low-profile and unproven in the sneaker scene at the time. With the recent SB resurgence, we’ve seen a lot of retread. New ‘Diamond’ Dunks, new ‘Pigeons’ and most recently, a collaborationwith longtime Swoosh veteran Parra. What creatives would you like to see trusted with SB collabs in the future?
Sbtg – To be honest, I don’t really care, but I know I wanna see more than just ‘colourway’ ideas that are inspired by their local climate. I would love to see a Neckface-designed Dunk SB with his prints all over…
M.W. – They actually did a Neckface Dunk a few years back! A Blazer SB too! [Laughs] They only featured text though.
Sbtg – I’d love to see one with more of his artwork. To phrase it, whenever I see a collab, I look out for elements that the brand themselves couldn’t come up with. Designs like the ‘Denim Forbes’ and original ‘Elephant print’ Supreme Dunks were genius, but are only unique the first time those ideas are done.
M.W. – Fair point. Even before your official SB collab, you had already punched out plenty of intricately designed custom Dunks. Since then, we’ve seen a huge spike of interest in custom sneakers courtesy of people like The Shoe Surgeon. More often than not though, these modern custom sneakers are premium takes on existing sneakers or inspired by pop culture. It’s rare that there’s ever any truly original custom sneakers nowadays. What’s your take on this and, furthermore, where does Sbtg fit within this market?
Sbtg – Ah, good question! It’s true about that approach being the trend in the custom sneaker world. Be it ‘elevated materials’, cereal box-inspired designs or even just Off-White bootlegs. In summary, I’ve realised that’s what the market wants to consume and could palate. It has always been driven by the taste of the west. Now, everyone just does it better!
M.W. – True.
Sbtg – I made an analogy the other day. If I were to relate the custom sneaker scene to a genre of music, it would be top 40. It’s easy to sing along to and I don’t mean that in a good or bad way. It’s just what it is. Although. Sbtg would be some obscure dark wave punk goth kinda band! [Laughs] We are a band of misfits, but we love sticking out like a sore thumb!
M.W. – … and the world’s better for it! I think it’s hard for most people to justify the sheer level of work – and subsequent cost – that goes into a fully bespoke shoe without the safety of being able to connect it to an existing property.
Sbtg – Yeah, sneakers have become a form of sculptural artwork these days. People are used to admiring them like pieces of art. It’s no longer necessary to wear them any more.
M.W. – Can’t deny I’m guilty of owning plenty of shoes I would never part with for any sum of money, but I haven’t been able to bring myself to even so much as try them on.
Sbtg – Yeah, that’s because sneakers have transcended into these sculptural pieces of art. There is no need to wear them. A lot of sneakers are beautiful, but they don’t go with my style at all, and I still have to have them. My weakness is 1985 Air Jordan 1s.
M.W. – One of the few vintage shoes that could probably survive the harsh humidity of Singapore at least! [Laughs]
Sbtg – Yeah, they are tough as nails! They are older than a lot of so-called ‘sneakerheads’ these days.
M.W. – Even the first retros from 1994 are older than most sneakerheads nowadays!
[Sbtg whispers to his assistant]
Sbtg – I just asked my assistant what year she was born and it proved your statement. [Laughs]
M.W. – Speaking of Singapore, what is unique, if anything, about the sneaker and streetwear scenes over there?
Sbtg – I always find it hard to answer that question because I’m in it. It’s probably easier to look at Singapore from the outside and define it in such terms, but I know that for such a small city, we lead the region in sneaker brand collabs.
M.W. – Not a bad achievement. Do you feel the city of Singapore has influenced your artistic style?
Sbtg – Good question, not really. Indirectly, perhaps, but nothing visually. You see, we are in a very unique situation where we are only coming up on 54 years old as an independent nation. My main influences are punk rock and skateboarding.
M.W. – And your love for camouflage?
Sbtg – I served mandatory military service here in Singapore, but my love for camouflage actually stemmed from before that. I was already into skating in big baggy military fatigues. The Wu-Tang Clan and, later, Maharishi opened up the possibility of how I could take it up to another level and apply it to sneakers. It became an obsession and since then we have always been known for. As for your original question, though, what’s unique about Singapore is that whatever we do, we get to be part of our history.
M.W. – That’s an interesting position to be in.
Sbtg – I’m very blessed to have our country celebrate what I do as a creative. I recently got a major shoutout from our prime minister, during his National Day speech and I also became an ambassador of the Singapore Tourism Board.
M.W. – That’s fantastic. I don’t think you could experience that anywhere else but Singapore. I guess its small geographic size can be a true advantage in that regard.
A decade ago, collaboration was seen as something of an endorsement of creative talent. Recently, we’ve seen sneaker brands entrusting so-called influencers like Sean Wotherspoon and liljupiterr with collabs. What’s your take on this recent trend?
Sbtg – I feel that it’s the same format. I would like to think that whoever the brands choose, they must have gone through a process and feel that they have the right kinda energy to express it though their product . I feel it ain’t about design anymore, but more of an opinion being expressed physically and visually, combined with his collaborator’s connection with their community.
If you check out the episode of Jeff Staple’s podcast The Business of Hype that features Sean Wotherspoon, you can tell that Sean is a person that could articulate and connect with people better than some pure creatives. End of the day, it’s all communication via product. Perhaps ‘letting the art speak for itself’ is no longer the desired format…
M.W. – Maybe you’re right. In broad strokes, what do you make of the sneaker scene as it is today compared with the early 2000?
Sbtg – It’s on steroids! Everything is amplified!
M.W. – Can’t disagree there! Finally, what’s next in the pipeline for Sbtg?
Sbtg – We’ve got a couple of exciting collabs coming up next year with New Balance and ASICS. We’ve also got more workshops planned, some Japanese clothing line collabs and will be appearing in conventions more!
M.W. – … and a new SB Dunk, I hope! Nike better take note. [Laughs]
Sbtg – Hopefully so. One of the reasons I do custom sneakers is because I have too many ideas in my head and I cant wait for brands to allow me to execute them. It’s like a sampling process for me. After looking into the fragility of the original SB Dunk recently, we might actually do our own rebuild independently, so watch out!
Sbtg has just dropped a limited edition rug in collaboration with Copaze, commemorating his SB Dunk design. Get yours now while stocks last throug Copaze or the Sbtg Surplus website.
Stay up to date with Sbtg’s latest work on Instagram through @sbtg_official and Mark Ong’s personal account, @mr_sabotage.