A Bathing Ape is one the biggest brands in modern streetwear. It’s worn by celebrities worldwide and has collaborated with everyone from adidas to Marvel Comics. However, something has changed at the brand best known simply as BAPE in recent years: its heart and soul, the brand’s imaginative founder NIGO, has gone for good.
Eager to stretch his wings and fly beyond the fan-fuelled thirst for BAPE’s signature 1st Camo, NIGO recently parted ways to concentrate on an entirely new brand in the form of HUMAN MADE. With the HUMAN MADE poised to drop its debut adidas collab capsule this weekend in conjunction with NIGO’s close friend Pharrell, we decided the time is right to see how NIGO’s newest venture came to be and if it has what it takes to be bigger than BAPE.
Starting from NOWHERE
As we previously explored in our article on UNDERCOVER founder Jun Takahashi, NIGO’s journey to streetwear superstar began at Japan’s revered Bunka Fashion College in the late 80s. NIGO and Takahashi were far from star pupils, bucking the college’s traditional focus in favour of clubbing and concerts. A united appreciation for outlandish fashion led the two to launch the now-legendary store NOWHERE in 1993 in Ura-Harajuku. While NOWHERE would prove short-lived, it would serve as the launchpad for both UNDERCOVER and A Bathing Ape, as well as establishing the reputation of its founders amongst Japan’s youth.
Ape Affection
NIGO, whose name translates to ‘Number Two’ as a nod to his close relationship with mentor Hiroshi Fujiwara, would draw inspiration from the exclusivity of Fragment Design in establishing his own brand. As such, even from BAPE’s early days, he would reportedly only create enough product to satisfy just 10% of all demand. To further fuel demand, NIGO would give away huge amounts of everything he made – reportedly as much as half in the brand’s early days – to popular and influential figures to secure the brand’s status and desirability.
Superstar Status
Now, you don’t need us to tell you that this model of minimal supply and ever-spreading demand made BAPE an almost instant success. By 1998, the brand was being sold in 40 stores across Japan – although in an unexpected move, NIGO elected to cease this business model to sell exclusively through a single dedicated A Bathing Ape store. This added struggle to obtain BAPE’s wears only further fuelled demand and sales improved even more so. In the decade that followed, BAPE continued to rise in popularity and establish its reputation in the mainstream. By the mid 2000s, BAPE could be seen on just about everybody who was anybody in streetwear and urban culture, everywhere around the world. It’s colourful and playful aesthetics came to define the period.
Enter: HUMAN MADE
In 2010, it had become clear that NIGO was itching to break free from the shackles of primate panache that he had established almost two decades prior. That year, he established an all new brand dubbed HUMAN MADE as a means to create without the suffocating restrictions of BAPE’s widely established – and beloved – visual trademarks. The following year, in news that few could have predicted, it was announced that BAPE had been sold to Hong Kong-based fashion conglomerate I.T Group. NIGO remained with the brand for two more years as Creative Director, but the brand we know as BAPE today is entirely free of his input
Timeless Traditions
Comparing BAPE with HUMAN MADE is like comparing a pair of the latest Yeezys with a classic pair of Stan Smiths – both are good on their own merits, but are at opposite ends of the spectrum in terms of aesthetics. Where BAPE is known for its wildly colourful and almost-childlike designs, HUMAN MADE harkens back to designs from a simpler time, when quality and longevity truly mattered. Inspired by NIGO’s personal appreciation for vintage Americana, HUMAN MADE’s designs channel 50s American workwear, executed with a touch of Japanese flair.
Made with Love
Where BAPE had the ability to sell on the merits of its busy signature designs alone, the simpler aesthetics of HUMAN MADE draw attention to the quality of its creation and materials. The brand’s own clothing is made in Japan and – as its signature heart logo suggests – is made with love. Like the vintage clothing which inspired HUMAN MADE’s creation, its apparel is made to last the test of time.
adidas Hu x HUMAN MADE
This weekend, HUMAN MADE makes its collaborative sneaker debut together with adidas. Born from NIGO’s close friendship with Pharrell, the duo have united to combine Hu and HUMAN MADE, bringing us limited versions of the Tennis Hu, NMD Hu and Solar Hu.
All three models release through Foot District on Saturday, October 5. Pairs will be available online from the stroke of midnight CEST and available in stores from 11am CEST. Get in quick so you don’t miss out!